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Lizard Head

  • mtschmalz5
  • Feb 9
  • 1 min read

Updated: Mar 4

Journal Entry August, 1995: Jim Morton and I climbed Lizard Head after camping on the pass. This ten hour journey was made even harder because of two factors: Number one, I was not feeling well. Even before the first pitch, I was hurting from food poisoning from the night before in Tellluride. The first 100 foot technical pitch (after a 3,000 foot vertical and three mile hike) was made more difficult.


Number two made the climb much more interesting. After two miles, I realized I did not bring my harness, ATC, slings, or carabineers. Luckily Jim had extra webbing so we made a diaper and shared the ACT by pulling it up the rope after belaying.


Anyhow, Jim led four pitches of loose climbing. Woo woo! Excellent lead! Lizard Head is the hardest 13er. It was not until after this climb that I actually contemplated attempting all the 13ers.



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